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Software Removal



Windows Store®--Buy Burn The Mortgage!



Save Money And More With Our
Burn The Mortgage! App

Purposes Of The Application

Use the "Burn The Mortgage!" application while you're looking for that amazing new home.

  1. Use this app while you're starting your home search. See how much your monthly payment will be for a mortgage given the prevailing interest rates in your area.
  2. Take your tablet with you while you're out looking for the home of your dreams. When you find one you like, you can snap pictures of it and email them to your significant other--just to show her/him what you've found. And while you're at it, you can see how much the monthly (interest and principal) payment will be and email that to him/her as well.
  3. Once you've found that dream home and know how much it's going to cost, you can shop the interest rate with several lenders in the area. (Be sure to see our Information Section below for more on this.) It's easy to use this app to see how much a quarter-percent cut in the interest rate will save you. (Betcha you'll be surprised!) This application will let you make these comparisons in a minute or two so you can know what's best for you rather than for the lender. (Read more about loan times and early payoff below.)
  4. Finally, take a few minutes and use the application to run a few early payoff scenarios. Can you pay a little extra each month? How about your annual bonus or income tax refund (if there is one--could you use part of that to make an extra payment?) Play "what if I" scenarios for a few minutes and see how you can, literally, save tens of thousands of dollars. Because the tool allows you to play "what if" games with paying the loan early, it can show you how to save a great deal of money on a home mortgage. (Be SURE to read the section "Pay It Off Early" below.)
  5. While you're at it, especially if you're looking for a new home or other property, look at the section on using your device's camera.

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Using The Application

To use this application:

  1. Enter the amount you need to borrow rounded to the nearest whole dollar. Only enter numbers 0-9, no decimal, commas, or other symbols.
  2. Enter the month and year when your first loan payment will be made. Enter the month as 1-12.
  3. Enter the interest rate percentage you'll be paying for the use of the money you're borrowing. This should be entered as 99.9 or 9.9 e.g., 3.9% would be entered as simply 3.9 with no percent mark.
  4. Finally, you must either select the number of years that repayment will require in the drop-down box, or you can move to the open entry box just to the right and simply enter the number of months for the loan. NOTE: If you're not using one of the so-called standard pay-back periods, you may HAVE to enter the number of months and this is normal.
  5. When you have entered the number of months, simply TAB to the next input block. The monthly payment amount for principal and interest will be waiting for you. Notice that you can right-click the screen to pull up App-Bars. In the right-top corner you'll find a button to "Copy Chart to Clipboard" and another to "Email-chart." Both of these will work at this point. In the lower-left part of the screen you'll see a "Full-chart" button. Click it and the full amortization chart will be generated and shown.

Once you've generated a full amortization chart, you can use the "What-If" button to see how much difference extra principal payments, even small ones, can save you over the life of your loan. You'll find this to be the most important part of using our Burn The Mortgage! application, so be sure to look into it and you'll be surprised at how much you can save. And you'll find the What-if Graph button produces a quick, easy-to-understand visual of the what-if's you've run along with a legend to explain the graph.

By now, you've probably noticed camera and photo buttons at the upper-left (on the App bars you saw after double-clicking the screen). If you have a built-in camera, give Burn The Mortgage! permission (see Permissions) to use your web-cam. Then you can use it to take photos of properties you like, or you can select an existing photo. You can then email your photo or share them with some of your other programs.

Finally, notice the photo-reset button. It resets Burn The Mortgage! to take other photos. In a similar manner, the Discard button will reset the loan amortization chart and the photo section at the same time.

An example of what the screen will look like when first used is shown below:

ITSBITS Catapult Garage Software Burn The Mortgage! Fixed-Rate Amortization Schedule Tool

You can choose one of several color schemes to suit your taste or mood. Just use the standard Windows 8® Settings and then select the "Colorize" setting. Choose a color scheme you think you would like, then hit the go-back button at the top of the Colorize flyout. Here's the same screen image with the white/blue color scheme applied.

ITSBITS Catapult Garage Software Burn The Mortgage! Fixed-Rate Amortization Schedule Tool

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Each of the application's buttons is discussed above, so here's a screen image showing the application buttons available with the application:

ITSBITS Catapult Garage Software Burn The Mortgage! Fixed-Rate Amortization Schedule Tool

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Here's an image of the flyout where you can enter and specify your "What If I..." data. You can simply enter an amount of extra payment you'll make each month, then check the adjacent box to show you want to use this. You can then click the box to designate use of an extra payment at the end of each year of not. Once you've entered these and checked the boxes, you'll see that if you scroll the full chart to the bottom, it shows the original values as well as the effects and savings of the What-if data. But look one screen farther down and you'll see that you can also get a graphic presentation of your What-if scenarios.

ITSBITS Catapult Garage Software Burn The Mortgage! Fixed-Rate Amortization Schedule Tool

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ITSBITS Catapult Garage Software Burn The Mortgage! Fixed-Rate Amortization Schedule Tool

You can scroll down on the chart to see your What-if scenarios' results. You can also use the graphing button to see a screen like the one shown below:

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ITSBITS Catapult Garage Software Burn The Mortgage! Fixed-Rate Amortization Schedule Tool

Be sure to note the legend at the bottom of the graphing flyout. You can scroll it down to get a readout on each of the What-if options you've entered. (Only 5 are shown in this example image but you can graph up to 10.)

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Finally, let us take just a second to tell you how much we appreciate your use of our software. Use it to save lots of money!



Helpful Information/Looking For A Home?

The First Problem

There are a few times when you step into someone else's world and try, as best you can, to make your way forward. For most people these other-world events include buying a home, a car, an expensive boat, or a recreational vehicle. To some extent, it's a learn-by-experience time, but there are many things that you can learn by spending just a few minutes on researching the problem. This article is designed to help you survive the event that typically puts you at the greatest financial risk, and that will affect your life most, buying a home.

With that in mind, it's time to find out what you can actually afford. Why start with that? The answer is fairly obvious if you think about it. You'll waste a lot of time looking at properties that you can't really touch if you don't know what you can afford. If a seller knows you're pre-approved for the loan you'll need, they may agree to a little less than they want just to get it over with sooner. And finally, you'll make the eventual sale close far more easily and far more quickly if you're preapproved for the loan you need.

Suppose someone told you that for making about a dozen phone calls lasting anywhere from 2 to 10 minutes each you very well might save yourself $10,000 dollars or more. Would that seem like a good deal? Of course it is. So that's what you need to do. Get on the phone and call several local banks first. Next check with a couple of regional banks and a couple of national banks. Finally, look up some mortgage brokers in your area and check with them. The question you're asking all of them is, what is your current interest rate for a standard 30-year (more on that later) residential home loan for a price you believe you can afford? Obviously, you're looking for the best, i.e., lowest, interest rate you can get. Check it out. A one percent difference can make a huge difference in what the loan costs you if you pay it out in 30 years. Those phone calls can easily pay for themselves several times over.

Once you have the lowest rates, call and make an appointment with a loan officer. Go see him/her face to face and arrange to get pre-approval on the loan. This is where you'll find out what the bank thinks you can afford to pay and if it's lower than you thought, though it's sad to say, in most cases the bank is right and you need to adjust your thinking to align with it. In any event, if you can't get a loan for the amount you previously considered, you can't buy a property that costs that much. Period. Nor do you want to get into a mess where you can't afford the payments.

Once you and the bank agree and the pre-approval process is going on, you can begin what we call, "the search."

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The Search Begins

Let's begin with something many people never consider when looking for a home. If all you're thinking about is today, you're making a terrible mistake. The real estate world loves to tell you that your home is likely the largest investment you'll make in your lifetime. To an extent, that's true. But the word "investment" is, for many people, misleading. That's because many people think of an investment as something that will only increase in value. Let's be straight about it: there are no such guarantees attached to home ownership, stock investments, or any other investments.

The recent bursting of our U.S. housing bubble (caused by Congressional actions taken in 2007 and not by either President) has been ample proof of one tenet most sales people working in the industry, and many others with vested interests in the housing industry, just do not want to admit. There is absolutely no guarantee that a property is going to appreciate. In fact, a home and/or land may actually depreciate, usually due to circumstances that are beyond your control and/or ability to predict.

So, let's cautiously rephrase the statement to say that a home is likely the most expensive thing you'll ever buy, but with precautions, luck, and proper care, it will hold or increase in value over time. Though, you must still realize that it may well lose at least some of its value over time. We use the word "cautiously" because at some point in time, with God's blessings and prudent, fortunate investing, you may reach the point where you're retirement age and would rather have money to live on and a smaller home to maintain. In other words, you might like to sell your home one day, purchase a smaller home somewhere (maybe on a mountain top or near a beach), and invest the difference in something that pays a reasonable interest rate and thus provides you with income to live on.

So, we come to the first bit of advice you need to heed about starting your home search. You can often protect yourself from unforeseen and unpredicted depreciation by doing a little research ahead of time. Believe it or not, that's where your home search should begin. Ask yourself how long you intend to live in the home you're about to search for. Then ask yourself about the areas you're considering. What condition are the neighborhoods in those areas in today? What does that say about their condition through the years you expect to live there. If you can't honestly believe a neighborhood will at least hold its value, you should be looking elsewhere.

Next, you should take time to talk to some of the people who have lived in the areas of most interest to you for some time. Buy them a cup of coffee or a soda and ask questions about the area.

"Do you know of any plans to bring heavy industry, mining, or anything else into the area? Anything that might hurt it?"

"How are the schools? Are there any plans announced to build new ones? Are there enough teachers? How good a job do you think they're doing?"

"Where's the nearest hospital and how good is it?" If you're still young, take caution here. Over a period of years--or for that matter, tomorrow-- this can become far more important than it may seem at first, so don't overlook it. (Fifteen minutes of travel time can often mean life or death. Think about it. Ask about it.)

"Is the area safe to be in at night? Do you know of any robberies or other things going on?" If your locale has one, check the local police website for sex offenders living in the area. Remember, it CAN happen to you or your children.

We're sure you can think of other such questions that might indicate what the area will look like in the future. If your favorite area looks to be a loser over time, do yourself a favor...keep looking elsewhere.

And, by the way, if you expect to have children, you should place extra emphasis on the school system. Take no one's word for it. (More on that later.) Do your homework yourself. Ask questions, look up the schools' ratings. Be sure you aren't being snookered. And while you're at it, pay a little visit to the schools your kids would attend. Try to attend a parent-teachers' meeting and see what the attitudes and teacher are like.

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Next, The Salesperson

So now let's assume you've found an area you believe will work well for you over time. Now comes the step where you make first contact with one or more sales people. And with this comes a new set of problems. Let's be clear about this from the get go. Get the idea and don't for a minute forget it. If you're the salesperson, no sale means no money. Any sale means you make money. The higher the sale price, the more money you make. Hence, the better off you and your family are. Think of the salesperson as a stand-in for the seller. He/she is NOT your friend and they are NOT on your side. They are not working for you. They are working for themselves. Period.

In line with these facts, you must realize that if you tell the salesperson you want a house that is selling for $150,000, there's a chance you will be shown one or two "dogs" with asking prices of $150K. This will be followed by lots of nicer houses selling for about $225K - $250K. Why? The salesperson will assume that if you see a $225K house, you'll like it more than the $150K houses ("dogs") you've seen and you'll want it. Then the assumption is that you'll offer $200K for a $225K home and if a deal can be worked out, you'll struggle to pay the difference to get the nicer home. (More on that later.)

From the salesperson's point of view, what just happened if this tactic is successful? It's simple, the real estate agent just made a percentage of $200K instead of the same percentage of $150K. From your point of view, what just happened? You've been snookered into throwing everything you have into buying a more expensive home so if anything goes wrong, e.g., the HVAC system needs work, your car's transmission fails, the kids need braces, you name it, you'll be thrown into debt and you'll probably be forced to put it on a credit card at maximum legal interest rates. To put it bluntly, you're screwed.

So the rule is simple. If you go out with a real estate agent who begins showing you a lot of homes that are much more expensive than you've said you could afford, tell the salesperson, "I'm sorry, but this is a waste of time. If you don't have any homes at the price we've set that are nicer than what we've seen so far, we'll just have to go somewhere else." Then stick to it. Don't let him/her move you out of the area you've chosen or make excuses. Just repeat it again and find another, more scrupulous agent to spend your time with. But remember, he/she is also not your representative and not your friend.

You CAN pay an agent to be a "buyer's agent" and work for you. (Or perhaps you have family who you trust to work on your behalf?) This can speed your search along, but with the internet at your disposal, the search is not your worst problem, as you'll soon see. If you're not familiar and experienced with the mechanics and legalities involved in buying a home, you might find that the amount you'll pay for a "buyer's agent" is well worth it. Also, you need to check in your area to see if having a "buyer's agent" will cost you anything at all. In some areas, the selling agent's fee is simply split between the seller's agents and the buyer's agents, thus leaving you to pay no extra fee at all. In these cases, you should definitely try to use a buyer's agent. But...the same advice still follows. Two percent of $150K is still less than two percent of $200K and the person you tie in with still is NOT your friend.

Here's a simple rule you should definitely follow. Trust everyone, but cut the deck every chance you get.

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Found The One We Like!

There comes that moment when you've been looking at houses for a while and you're pretty discouraged and frustrated. Then you walk into a house and you just know: this is the one you want! You can almost hear someone singing "Hallelujah" and it feels so good to see it! You just want to sign on the line and move right in.

But wait!

It's best to take a few steps before moving forward.

Since we already covered getting in the right area before you start wasting time looking in other places (see above), we'll assume you know about the area's future (as best you can), its schools, hospitals, etc. Now it's time to ask some pressing questions. First, and perhaps most obvious, is the state of the property itself. Here you have to make some decisions and these will be very busy days for you.

Start off by phoning around and finding an inexpensive lawyer who specializes in loan closings. This can save you some money, plus it can give you someone who is more neutral than the person recommended by the salespeople. Almost any salesperson or their company will offer you a connection with the lawyer they usually use. Who does he/she represent? And, you may need to ask the lawyer some other questions along the way, too. (See below.)

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Your next worry involves what the property is actually worth. Just because the seller wants one price does not mean the property is worth that price--another, usually lower, price may be far more appropriate. Don't rely on the real estate agent, either...see above about percentages. If you have ANY doubts about the home's value, pay a little and get a professional assessor to look at it and give you a report on its value before you commit to any kind of purchase agreement.

If you're familiar enough with residential construction, plumbing, electrical wiring, HVAC systems, and septic systems, to feel comfortable without help, you're one of a very few. If, like most people, you have to admit discomfort and/or ignorance in dealing with at least some of these areas, you need to hire a professional to look at the house before you make any rash decisions. This does NOT mean you won't consider the house, but it does mean you may include in your offer that some problem must be repaired (at seller's cost) before you'll close the deal, or that your offer includes a deduction of some amount needed to make necessary repairs. (In case you wonder why HVAC is mentioned so often, it's the most likely place to find troubles in an older home and it's one of the single most expensive non-construction points of pain you may have.)

If you are familiar enough to trust yourself on the home's condition assessment, be SURE to include foundation cracks and other such problems, investigations for asbestos, mold/mildew presence, Chinese drywall problems, moisture and insect damage, aluminum wiring, roof age and condition, and tell-tale signs of acidic water damage to copper pipes. As you walk through the property, look closely at every ceiling in the home for the tell-tale brown stains that indicate leaks from the roof or overhead plumbing. (Many knowledgeable people take a sock-foot walk through looking for construction problems before they go farther with the deal.) If you have no idea what we're talking about with more than two of these items, swallow your pride and hire a pro to inspect the property before you make an error...er...offer. It just might save you a bunch of money and in the scheme of things, the peace of mind it will give you is cheap.

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Next, let's think about how much to offer for the property. While you're working on the condition of the property, you need to be working to determine the assessed value of the property assuming its condition turns out to be good. Our recommendation, again, unless you are very familiar with the procedures involved and the area's recently sold properties, is to hire a pro. BUT...not just any professional will do. You want someone who works in the area where your new home--assuming you wind up with it--is located. Anyone, including you, can look up the comparable sales that have occurred in the last six to nine months in the area. It's a boring, paper-shuffle kind of thing to do and it will probably take you about three to six hours on your computer to do it in most locations, but it isn't rocket science. The problem is, when you find a home of about the same age and square footage, and you know it sold for some amount more or less than the home you're considering, how do you know if it was in better or worse condition? How do you know if they cut the price by several thousand dollars so they could put a new roof on it? How do you know if it was a fancier (or less fancy) home than what you're looking at? You need someone who is familiar with the "comps." You also need someone who's locally connected enough to be able to pick up the phone and quickly have the answers he/she doesn't already know. That's where you MUST get someone who can tell you about some of the "comps" in the area before he/she does anything you'll actually be billed for. If they can't, they're not who you want. Try someone else. (This is an area where calls to a local real estate office or three can help you because they know these people and can tell you who works the area.)

And, while you're considering the condition of the property and its assessed value, you need to be doing initial work on the financials, too. Begin with two simple items. Ask what the property taxes on the property were for the last year--interesting information and it's usually pro-rated on a monthly basis between seller and buyer so you'll need to know the value and pay part of it, but it's not sufficient. Don't assume that these taxes will be the same for you. Check with the local courthouse and ask what the property's assessed taxable value is. If it's lower than what you finally pay for the property, be sure you realize that your taxes will almost certainly be based upon the price you actually pay. (It's hard to argue with the politicians when they say, "You paid this much for it, didn't you?" And they know that. And they want money...your money!) Ask the courthouse folks what the taxes would be on the amount you expect to pay while you have them on the phone and base your plans for future tax payments on that amount rather than last year's tax amount. That way, you won't be shocked if the taxes double. If they don't go up, be happy!

OK, speaking about the final sale price brings up thoughts of financing. A common error buyers of homes make is to expect the sale to be complete in just a few days. But the truth is, it's not like buying a new car. Make no assumptions about how long it will take to close the sale. Let's start off by thinking about the existing financing on the property because it may have a huge impact on your plans. Begin by asking your real estate agent to find out about the property's title, i.e., how many mortgages are on it, and who holds those mortgage(s). If it's a "normal" sale with a single and possibly a second mortgage, you should expect a 60-day time frame for closure. Don't expect 30 days and be happy if it closes in 45.

If one or more of the liens on the property isn't local or who holds the mortgage isn't known or, even worse, is in doubt, you may expect to add still more time to the deal regardless of what other mortgages there are or how easily they close.

It the home you're after is a foreclosure, expect titling delays and banking delays. Plan on 90 days for completion and if it's less, again, be happy! Always consult a local lawyer about possible complications arising from the purchase of a foreclosed property before you go through with it.

The nightmare scenario arises on a "short sale" where there's more than one lender and at least one has not given prior approval for a short sale. A simple one-lender, pre-approved short sale looks about like a normal sale--plan on 60 days and if it's less, good. But on a short sale without prior approval, six months may prove to be optimistic. Two or more lenders and no prior approval of a short sale? Maybe it will close in 12 months if you're lucky. We just thought you should know because you may be in a situation where you can't wait that long.

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So let's assume your assessment of the property's condition comes in good, the assessor says the value and price of the home is good, and you are confident that it's time to move forward. Make your offer with any appropriate conditions about repairs, cleaning, window treatments, title clearance, etc. Be sure to specify the closing lawyer you want to use. Now comes the part most people understand, but some just don't seem to get. This is not a retail store purchase, it's far more like horse trading. Always leave some room for negotiation--unashamedly offer less than the seller is asking. He/she may take it, but if they don't they'll almost always make a counter offer that is less than what you would have paid. And if they don't you can always move to the amount they're insisting on with no harm done...or make another offer with some additional benefits for them but still less cost for you. Think of it as a sport where you're trying to best our opponent.

And here is the most important advice we can give you. DO NOT throw every cent you have into the purchase. Always keep a fallback fund as you go into the deal. Let's think in terms of enough to replace the HVAC system that fails at the same time the car's transmission needs rebuilding and the kids need braces.

One other thing. Did you notice that we never mentioned anything other than a 30-year mortgage. Perhaps you wondered why. Things happen. The cheapest monthly payment you can get is almost always on a 30-year mortgage. If you lose your job or can't work for a few months, you don't want to be stretched to the limit before it happens. Part of your fallback is the fund mentioned above, but the lower your minimum monthly payment, the better. This will be especially true if some of those bad things should befall you and your family. And as anyone who owns a license to our software can quickly see, you can readily save lots of interest money by going ahead and making a larger monthly payment whenever and while you can. You can easily pretend you have a 15-year mortgage and get it paid off far more quickly and far less expensively.

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A Word About Escrow Accounts

The escrow account is a special account that most lenders require. The money in the account is used to pay your homeowner's insurance and your property taxes. The lender uses it for three things. First, it ensures that should the property be destroyed by fire or natural events, their "investment" is not lost. That's the insurance portion of the escrow account. The property tax portion of the escrow account speaks for itself. The third part of the escrow account is usually realized by the lender--it gets free use of your money by paying you zero interest on your money. Yea for the bank that's holding thousands of such accounts.

In most cases, you're about as well off, perhaps even better off, to use a lender who requires an escrow account. This is especially true if their interest rate on the principal is the lowest one available to you.

The biggest message is to remember to add the monthly escrow amount into your thinking when you consider the new monthly payment you're about to be making.

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Private Mortgage Insurance (PMI)

The lender's terms may require you to pay for Private Mortgage Insurance (PMI) if you don't make a large enough down payment. Typically this be an expense you can cancel once your payments have accounted for a given percentage of the principal--usually 20%. But as with all these things, you should cut the deck. If the lender in question is your lowest interest rate, check with the next ones up to see if they'll also require PMI. If they don't run the figures to see how much the PMI compares to paying a slightly higher interest rate--you may save money by paying the next-higher rate. If they all require PMI, be sure you filter it into your thinking when you talk about your new monthly payment.

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Homeowners' Association Dues and Conditions

Homeowners' Associations are as widely varied as the number of subdivisions they exist in. There are three things you should know about before you close the deal and buy in. First, you should realize that you probably cannot opt out of the HOA and if you try not making payments they will put liens on your property to force you to pay up. Second, since you're going to be paying them you need to take their annual dues amount, divide by 12, and add that to your new monthly payment amount. You may even want to ask the lender to include it in your escrow account but be sure it's negotiated and approved in writing since HOAs usually collect their money at off times of the year.

The third thing about HOAs are the conditions, also known as restrictions, they place on the home owners. These restrictions are usually not too intrusive and quite livable. However, if you plan on making external changes on the property you're buying, you may find the restrictions are extremely intrusive. If you need to add a sunroom or a garage, be very careful about the conditions imposed by the HOA. You may even need to talk to their "architectural committee" before you close your loan.

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Pay It Off Early

Finally, a note or two is in order about paying off the mortgage early by making larger than required and/or additional monthly payments. The lending institution, whether it's a bank, a mortgage broker, a credit union, or whatever, makes its money from the interest it charges you. That's why for you, it's better to get the loan paid off; but for the commercial lender it's better to drag it out as long as possible and get that interest money from you. As a result of this, we've encountered less scrupulous banking institutions that chose to credit early payments not against the principal, but into the borrower's escrow account--where their money is held to make tax and insurance payments. Then, at the end of the year, they magnanimously returned the excess funds as "over payments in the escrow account." For this reason, you'll need to check with the bank, especially if they don't give you a monthly statement, to be certain they don't pull this kind of thing on you.

Yet another ploy of the less scrupulous lender is to wait as long as possible before crediting your extra money against your principal. Again, this ploy makes money from them by allowing the loan to last a little bit longer. The message is, once more, that you must watch the lender to be sure they're honest and accurate in what they're doing. If they're not, don't hesitate to call them and demand that they follow the law and credit your payments to your account.

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Camera Usage

When you go out to look for a new home or other property, a common phenomenon is that after you've looked at a few, they "run together" in your memory. You know a certain one was a favorite, but you just can't quite remember some of the details you need to know about. Moreover, if your spouse isn't with you, as sometimes happens, you may wish for a way to show a favorite to your spouse and then discuss it. So, we've included the ability (if your device has a built-in camera) to snap pictures and share them. Moreover, you can select a picture you took earlier and share it.

You'll notice that there are buttons in the upper-left of the screen. One of them is labeled simply "Photo." Touch/click it and you'll be asked to give permission for the app to use the camera: this is a standard Windows 8® feature so you should be familiar with it, but it looks like the image shown below. You just have to touch/click the Allow button to OK the camera's use.

ITSBITS Catapult Garage Software Burn The Mortgage! Fixed-Rate Amortization Schedule Tool

Depending upon your device, you will see its options and you can snap a picture--usually by touching/clicking in the middle of your device's screen. (See your device's manuals and information for more on how it works.)

The picture you took will go into your Pictures folder, but you can select a sub-folder and you get to name the picture. An example of what this standard Windows 8® screen might look like is shown here:

An example of what the screen will look like when first used is shown below. Notice that you name the file at the bottom:

ITSBITS Catapult Garage Software Burn The Mortgage! Fixed-Rate Amortization Schedule Tool

Be aware that if you cancel the operation, you'll see a screen something like this one. (If you cancelled it's not an error so just ignore it.)

ITSBITS Catapult Garage Software Burn The Mortgage! Fixed-Rate Amortization Schedule Tool

Once you've saved the image, your screen will show it, so it might look something like the screen image below:

ITSBITS Catapult Garage Software Burn The Mortgage! Fixed-Rate Amortization Schedule Tool

Of course, you can use the camera to take pictures of just about anything that interests you:

ITSBITS Catapult Garage Software Burn The Mortgage! Fixed-Rate Amortization Schedule Tool

And in a similar manner, there's a button to select an existing image from your Pictures folder. That button, also in the upper-left navigation bar, is labeled simply as "Select Photo." There's also a button to clear the image from your app so you can move forward with whatever you want to do next: this one is labeled as "Reset Photo."

But the most interesting button is labeled as "Share This Photo" and that's exactly what it lets you do--you can share the photo via other programs that reach out across the internet to other people--and that can be useful and/or fun, so don't forget to try it!
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Known Issues

As of program release, the only known issue is that the email client included by Microsoft® in Windows 8® ignores line-end characters (CR and LF), thus running all the data passed in by another program together. At least two of their developer evangelists are aware of this problem and it has been referred to the folks in Redmond. As soon as a fix is available, we will render an update (if necessary) to take care of this problem.

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